Can somebody provide me a tool list and tips for a DIY front end job on my F150 truck? See details inside?
Rock Hard asked:
Replacing the following:
Replacing the following:
Both Upper Control Arms
Idler Arm
Pittman Arm
L & R lower ball joints.
Please list any special tools and any tips would be appreciated.
Vehicle: 2001 F150 Lariat, V8 5.4
Vehicle is not a 4×4, its a 4×2
Because the job will have a major effect on the alignment, it’s really NOT a do-it-yourself job. I’d suggest talking to your mechanic about it instead.
Comment by oklatom — June 21, 2001 @ 9:04 pm
A front end alignment is the only part of this job that you can’t really do yourself. And if you do the rest properly, that probably won’t be that far off. Although I still do recommend you get one afterwards.
The Ball joints are pressed in, so you will need a ball joint press. Use puller type tools to disconnect the tie rod ends, and other joints you are not replacing. Only use a pickle fork tool on parts that you are replacing, as they will rip the dust boots.
Go to Autozone.com and register. You need to do that now, in order to access their Repair Guides. They have one for your truck, that will show you how to do all the stuff you mentioned. After you register, click the repair info” link, and select your truck. 2001, Ford, F-150 2wd, and which engine. (doesn’t really matter for this, but you need to pick one)
Once you have your vehicle profile entered, click the link “View Repair Guide” above the box where your vehicle is listed. Click the “Suspension” link, the “Front Suspension” link, the ” Rear-wheel Drive Coil Spring Front Suspension” link, and “Steering Knuckle & Ball Joints” for the ball joint procedure, or ” Upper Control Arms” for that.
The Idler Arm and Pitman arm are so easy they don’t even bother giving instructions it looks like. Use a pickle fork to separate each from the rest of the steering linkage, where the ball joint part of the larger part is, after removing the nut (and cotter pin if used).
The idler arm bolts to the frame. You may have to reach through a hole with a socket on an extension to hold the bolts while loosening the nuts. Careful not to drop the socket in the frame. The Pitman arm requires a special puller to remove it from the splined attachment at the bottom of the steering gearbox.
The pitman arm has a key in the spline you need to line up with the gearbox spline when you put the new one back on. Like one of the ridges is missing. Then just use the big nut to tighten it down on. (did I forget to mention the nut? Oh well, I’m sure you’ll see it. LOL)
Bolt the Idler arm back on the frame, then put the ball joint like part back in the steering linkage for the Idler and the Pitman, and tighten the nuts down. Install cotter pins if used.
Now, as far as these tools, look back up at the top of the web page, and click the “In our stores” link, the ” Loan-A-Tool Program” link, then the ” Steering and Suspension” link for the ball joint press, and pickle forks, and the ” Pullers - Specialized” link for the pullers for the parts you need to re-use. Also recommend a puller for the Pitman arm, though they do show a pickle fork for that. They don’t work very good for Pitmans.
They’re all free to use with a deposit, which is returned when you’re done. I hear that they also expect you to buy the parts there in exchange for this service. (I don’t know first-hand, as I already have all these tools) But considering they probably have the best prices anyway, not a bad deal. Most other stores charge rental fees.
If you have any other questions, or something doesn’t look like I described, e-mail me from my profile page (click my avatar), and I’ll try to clear things up. And good luck!
Comment by catmandew — June 22, 2001 @ 12:22 am